Fish Creek Provincial Park - Published in the Pathways Section of Nature Canada 

by Rhonda Parkinson

A visitor admiring the glass buildings that dominate Calgary's skyline - the same skyline used to portray the city of Metropolis in the Superman films - would find it hard to believe that a tranquil prairie wilderness is located just 13 kilometres from downtown. Fish Creek Provincial Park is a sprawling 1,189 hectares of forests and meadows nestled between the Bow River and the T'suu Tina Reserve in southern Calgary. The park has something for everyone - nature lovers will delight in the wide variety of flora and fauna, while history buffs will appreciate the historic sites commemorating Calgary 's pioneer past. 

When John Glenn and his wife Adelaide set up a trading post and farm in the Fish Creek Valley in 1876 - becoming the first settlers in the area - the land was an untamed wilderness of grassland and rivertine forest, not to mention the seemingly endless supply of fish from which the Creek derives its name. Today, native grasses have made way for introduced species, and hikers, cyclists, and nature lovers share the park's 80 kilometres of red shale and paved trails. Still, in many ways Fish Creek Park - Canada's largest urban park - remains unchanged from the days when Glenn's trading post was a popular stop for weary travellers journeying between Fort McLeod and Fort Calgary. 

The forces that shaped the Fish Creek Valley began over thirty million years ago, during the Paleocene era. Fast moving waters carried a mixture of sandstone, shale, and silt into the still water lakes and swamps of much of what is now southwestern Alberta.The debris settled, creating the Porcupine Hills Formation. Later, meltwaters from a retreating glacier carved out the Fish Creek Valley into the bedrock formation. 

Mementos from Fish Creek Park's geological past are scattered throughout the park. On the park's northwestern border are the towering sandstone cliffs that make-up Raven Rocks. A glacial erratic - a mammoth rock carried south from the Mount Edith Cavell area - guards the park's eastern entrance off Bow Bottom Trail. Those adventurous enough to clamber onto the quartzite boulder will be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the Bow River glistening in the distance as it winds its way south-east towards Medicine Hat.

First-time visitors to Fish Creek Park will want to head to the Bow Valley Ranch complex in the eastern section of the park. Located near the Bow Bottom Trail entrance, the complex includes a visitor's centre with exhibits outlining the history of Fish Creek Park, and a supply of self-guiding trail maps. From the visitor's centre it's a short stroll to the Bow Valley Ranche. Built by millionaire rancher William Roper Hull in 1896, the Ranche was once the scene of numerous parties attended by the cream of Calgary society. Today, efforts to restore the yellow brick, Gothic Revival home are underway, and the building is scheduled to re-open this summer as an interpretive centre. Eventually, park officials hope to put in a botanical garden filled with native wildflowers, but for now you can check the hills behind the building for one of the few patches of native grasses remaining in the park. 

Adjacent to the Ranche House is Annie's Bakery Café, located in the original Foreman's House at Bow Valley Ranche. Open from early spring through Thanksgiving, the fare at Annie's ranges from homemade sandwiches and nourishing soups to fresh baked goods and hot mulled wine. 

For frequent visitors, a popular starting point is Votier's flats, located in the middle section of the park off the Elbow Drive entrance. Here, thick stands of aspen and balsam poplar shade a network of trails, providing a moist environment for plants such as the red-osier dogwood. Beaver are common here: evidence of their presence can be seen in the dams honed from the poplar trees that line the creek. Be sure to keep an eye out for a band of mule deer or a solitary white-tailed deer daintily picking a path through the poplar woods. At dusk the little brown bat emerges to hunt for insects. 

Directly south of Votier's Flats are the wide open spaces of Shaw's meadow. Nature lovers can drink in the peaceful stillness as they stroll through knee-high fields of brome grass. If you look carefully you may catch sight of a Richardson's ground squirrel, or a meadow vole scampering across the trail before vanishing into a sea of golden grass. Coyote are also attracted to the wildlife that inhabits the grasslands, and dog owners must keep their pets firmly leashed. 

The western landscape of Fish Creek Park differs markedly from the gently sloping hills and open meadows near the park's eastern borders. The steep, narrow valley walls at the west end of the park provide cooler temperatures and more moisture than the grasslands. Here, balsam poplar and aspen give way to white spruce. The majestic evergreens, distinctive for their blue-green needles, harbor a thick undergrowth of shrubs and mosses along the creek's banks. Chocolate coloured long-tailed weasels roam the woods, along with porcupines, red squirrels, and deer. 

Sikome Lake is the one area where Calgary 's urban bustle intrudes ever-so-slightly into Fish Creek Park. Tucked into the park's south-east corner, the man-made, tree-lined lake is accustomed to heavy traffic during the hot summer months. In winter, families skate on its frozen surface. Despite the bustle, you can still catch a glimpse of wildlife. 

In recent years, the incessant hammering and pounding of new home construction on the northern plateau temporarily drove the prairie falcons away from their traditional nesting site on the cliffs at Raven Rocks. Park officials erected nesting boxes in an attempt to entice them back, and for the past three years both prairie and peregrine falcons have again been spotted nesting at Raven Rocks. All told, Fish Creek Park's lush habitat attracts over 180 species of birds. It is common to see a raven - normally found only in the foothills and the forests of northern Alberta - gliding through the air above Raven Rocks. Avid birdwatchers may catch a glimpse of the majestic great blue heron along the creek's borders. 

The chorus of birdsong reaches its peak in Shannon Terrace on the west side of the park. The dark-eyed junco, white-winged crossbill, black-capped chickadees, warblers, and blue jays are all drawn to the rich canopy of the spruce and rivertine forests. A more common sound in the grasslands is the shrill shriek of a Swainson's or a red-tailed hawk. Pileated woodpeckers hammer the balsam poplar searching for insects in the rivertine forest at Votier's flats. Great horned owls hunt in the forests near Sikome Lake and in Shannon Terrace. 

Although barely a century passed between John Glenn's arrival and the opening of Fish Creek Provincial Park in 1975, the area is steeped in human history. Archeological digs provide evidence that the area was of importance to natives as a place to hunt buffalo. After herding thousands of bison over the cliffs on the southern edge of the valley walls, they set up campsites to process the buffalo meat. Over 46 sites have been found in the park, the oldest dating back approximately 8,000 years. 

Even during summer, when crowds seek refuge from the heat on the sandy beaches of Sikome Lake, the surrounding areas of Fish Creek Park remain quite secluded. It is always possible to find a quiet refuge off the beaten path to drink in the sights and sounds of the park's wildlife and botanical treasures. City-dwellers and tourists alike will find that the forests and fields of Fish Creek Park provide a peaceful, yet easily accessible, sanctuary within an urban setting. 

Cycling downhill into Sikome Lake one sun-drenched August morning, I turned a corner and came face to face with a golden eagle sitting inches away from the bicycle path. Undisturbed by my presence, he waited until I had passed by to soar into a stand of evergreens adjacent to the lake's parking lot. Superman couldn't have done it any better!

If you go: To get to Fish Creek Park in Calgary, follow Highway 1 west or east to Deerfoot Trail. (Highway 1 becomes 16th Avenue inside the Calgary city limits). Head south on Deerfoot Trail, and take the Bow Bottom Trail exit. This will take you into the Bow Valley Ranche entrance. For those more familiar with Calgary streets, Fish Creek Park can also be reached from Elbow Drive, taking you to Votier's flats, and 37th street in the Southwest, which leads you to the Shannon Terrace entrance. Fish Creek Park is a day park with no overnight camping. Campfires are permitted in designated areas, but you must pack in your own firewood. The Bow Valley Ranche Visitor's Centre remains open year-round; however, the park's hours of operation vary throughout the year so it's best to check with management prior to your visit. 

For additional information, call or write
Fish Creek Provincial Park 
Box 2780 Calgary, Alberta,
T2P 0Y8

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